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First, what this is not

Indoor air quality has become a sales category, and a lot of what is sold under the name does not survive contact with a measurement. So, before the service:

It is not a gadget plugged into a wall outlet. A tabletop purifier cleans the room it sits in. The air handler moves the air of the whole house several times an hour; that is where the leverage is.

It is not duct cleaning by another name. Cleaning removes what has settled. It does nothing about what is arriving through leaks, growing on a coil or condensing out of humid air. Sometimes cleaning is part of the answer; it is rarely the whole one.

It is not a mold remediation service. If a Gainesville rental has mold in the drywall, that is a remediation company’s job and sometimes a landlord’s legal problem. Our job is the mechanical cause that let it grow, so it does not come back.

It is not a replacement for maintenance. A dirty coil and a clogged drain are maintenance findings. If your air handler has not been opened in years, start there.

And it is not an upsell attached to every service call. Cook’s recommends air quality equipment when the readings justify it, and says so when they do not.

What it is

At ten years, a typical Gainesville air handler has run roughly five long cooling seasons at 72-degree dew points, several pollen seasons that loaded its coil, and ten years of whatever the ducts leak in from an attic or crawlspace. The equipment may still cool fine. But the blower wheel, the coil surface, the drain pan and the cabinet insulation have become the house’s largest reservoir of dust, biofilm and moisture, and the air passes over all of it dozens of times a day.

Indoor air quality service is the discipline of measuring what that system is doing to the air, correcting the mechanical causes, and adding filtration, dehumidification or ventilation only where measurement says they will help. Three Gainesville house types set the agenda:

House The usual finding at year ten
1970s and 1980s single-story, Northwest Gainesville and Suburban Heights Return-side duct leaks drawing attic air; one-inch filter slot; coil biofilm
1990s and 2000s two-story, Haile Plantation, Blues Creek, Westchester Oversized equipment leaving summer humidity near 60 percent; dust on the second-floor returns
Pre-1930 historic, Duckpond and Pleasant Street Crawlspace air entering through floor returns; attic unit with a long, dirty drain

Student housing adds a fourth: high-cycle package units and PTACs where filter changes depend on whoever lived there last.

Particle counter and hygrometer readings on a Gainesville kitchen table during an indoor air assessment
Measurement first. Nothing is recommended until the numbers say what the problem is.

The visit, step by step

  1. Interview. What you notice, when, in which rooms; who in the house has allergies or asthma; how old the equipment is and when it was last serviced.
  2. Measure. Indoor humidity in several rooms; particle counts indoors against outdoors; carbon dioxide as a stand-in for how much fresh air the house gets; temperature and humidity at supply registers.
  3. Open the air handler. Coil surface, blower wheel, drain pan and trap, cabinet insulation, filter slot depth and the filter that is in it.
  4. Test the ducts. Visual inspection of accessible runs and connections; a pressurized leakage test when the readings suggest leaks. GRU sells a residential duct test as well; our numbers and theirs should agree.
  5. Write the findings. What is causing what, in plain language, with the readings attached. Then a recommendation in three tiers: fix the mechanical causes; add equipment where justified; monitor and revisit.
  6. Do the agreed work. Coil and drain cleaning, duct sealing, a media filter cabinet, a whole-house dehumidifier, a UV lamp over the coil, or a fresh-air ventilation system for tight newer homes. Lennox Healthy Climate equipment is what we install.
  7. Re-measure. Same instruments, same rooms, after the work and again a few weeks later if humidity was the issue.

Schedule an indoor air assessment

How to prepare for the visit

  • Note the rooms and times when the air bothers you most. Patterns matter: mornings point to humidity, pollen weeks point to filtration, heating season points to the coil.
  • Leave the house at its normal settings for a day beforehand so the readings reflect how you live, not how you tidied.
  • Clear access to the air handler, whether that is a garage corner, a hall closet or an attic hatch, and to the return grilles.
  • Have the equipment’s model and serial numbers or the last service report handy if you can find them.
  • If someone in the house has a diagnosed respiratory condition, tell us; it changes which readings we weigh most.
  • Keep windows closed during the visit so indoor and outdoor particle counts can be compared honestly.

What it costs to find out

The assessment is priced as a visit and quoted when you book. Equipment and duct work are quoted after the findings, never before, and you decide tier by tier. Cook’s work carries a satisfaction guarantee and each product carries its maker’s warranty. For income-qualified owners of homes over ten years old, GRU’s LEEPplus program has covered duct repair and efficiency upgrades at no cost, though it was paused to new applicants in May 2026; it is worth asking the utility whether it has reopened. Cook’s involvement with that program is not established. [[CONFIRM WITH JERRY]]

Indoor air questions from Gainesville homes

Is duct sealing something you do with mastic by hand, or spray from inside?

By hand, with mastic and mesh at every accessible joint, boot and plenum connection, and with new collars where flex duct has pulled loose. Interior spray sealing exists for inaccessible runs, and we will say if your attic calls for it. Either way we test leakage before and after so you see the change.

The thermostat says 74 but the house feels clammy. Why?

Because temperature and humidity are separate problems and the air conditioner is only solving one. An oversized or short-cycling system cools the air before it has dried it; leaking return ducts pull humid attic air in; a fan left on ‘On’ in summer re-evaporates water off the coil. We measure which it is and fix that one.

Which filter should go in a one-inch slot versus a four-inch cabinet?

In a one-inch slot, a modest pleated filter changed monthly during pollen season and every two months otherwise; anything denser risks starving the blower. A four-inch cabinet can take a much higher-rated filter and hold it for months. If pollen is the problem and you have the one-inch slot, the cabinet is the upgrade that matters.

Does a whole-house dehumidifier fight the air conditioner?

No; it finishes the job the air conditioner cannot. On a 78-degree, 90-percent-humidity Gainesville morning the thermostat may not call for cooling at all, and the house gets damp. The dehumidifier runs then, independently, and lets you keep the thermostat higher in summer without feeling sticky.

Is the attic unit's closet smell coming from the attic or from the equipment?

Usually the equipment: a wet coil, a drain pan that never fully empties, or insulation inside the cabinet that has absorbed years of moisture. Attic air itself gets in only through leaks. Opening the cabinet answers the question in a minute.

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